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Believe it or not, it actually took more time test fitting the roll bar, and deciding where to exactly place it, measuring, etc., than anything else.

This is a plastic pipe the same diameter as the roll bar tubing. I slipped a tube of paper over the end so I could adjust the length and the angle of the end cut easily. This turned out to be a very valuable template for making the real tube.

Here you see my plastic tube doing a test fit from the main hoop to a rear fenderwell pad. The straight tube from the main hoop to the pad made for a direct path and good looking install. Many installs bend the tube so it meets the main hoop and the pad at right angles. It turns out if you do that, welding and bolting the pad is easier. I plan to do things that way on my next roll bar install.

Why bolt to the top of the fender wells? Many cars do this, but most Camaro installs run these stays further back to the flat area above the gas tank (which is above the rear axle), or through the rear speaker grills. There are advantanges and disadvantages to both approaches.

Advantages and disadvantages to connecting the stays to the flat gas tank area:
Advantages and disadvantages of running through the rear speaker grills:
Advantages and disadvantages of doing the stays to the tops of the fenders like I did:

Here is an angle gauge I made to check the angles between tubes was within spec (see the rules at Roll Bar Main). This measured the angle the hole saw needed to cut the tube. This angle needed to be greater than 30 degrees. The top of the stay needed to come within 5 inches of the top of the main hoop.

This is a test fit of the main hoop on the pads.

Keywords: Camaro, Firebird, LT1, LS1, autocross, road racing, SCCA, NHRA, drag racing, safety, roll bar, welding, racing rules

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