Electric racing in Utah on the Salt Flats:
http://www.savethesalt.com
http://www.explodingdinosaurs.com/saltflats/2007worldofspeed/electrat...
http://www.explodingdinosaurs.com/saltflats/2007worldofspeed/electric...
http://www.explodingdinosaurs.com/saltflats/2007worldofspeed/barstool/
National EV resources:
http://www.evdl.org
-- Electric Vehicle Discussion List -- great email list for electric
cars
http://www.NEDRA.com
-- National Electric Drag Racing Association
AC |
Alternating Current -- AC motor
systems are more expensive, but offer regenerative braking (see regen)
and slightly higher efficiency than DC. Most hobbyist conversions use
DC, most major car makers use AC. See DC. |
AGM Batteries |
Absorbed Glass Mat -- this kind
of battery holds the electrolyte in a sponge-like material. These
batteries don't leak electrolyte even if turned upside down. AGM
batteries typically have high power and don't ever need water added,
but cost more and don't live as long as flooded batteries. Examples
include Optima and Exide Orbital batteries. |
Controller |
This acts like a big dimmer
switch, and gradually ramps up the voltage to the motor. Without a
controller, an EV would start with a big jerk, and be dangerous to
drive in icy weather. Very low power EVs, like bikes and scooters,
often use just an on/off switch. |
Conversion |
Starting with a gasoline
vehicle, ripping out the gasoline parts, and putting in an electric
drive parts. Also used to refer to a vehicle that has been converted to
electric power. |
DC |
Direct Current -- direct current
motors tend to be simpler and cheaper than AC systems, and slightly
less efficient. See AC. |
DC-DC
Converter |
This device steps down the high
voltage of the electric car's battery pack (typically ranging from 36
Volts to 336 Volts) down to 12 Volts. This can now be used to charge
the 12 Volt battery, and run the car's 12 Volt electronics like the
headlights, radio, etc. It is generally not a good idea to tap a single
12 Volt battery from the main battery pack for this purpose, as that
battery will have more current drawn than the rest of the pack and will
become a weak link. |
Direct Drive |
Driving the wheels with just one
gear ratio -- This works best with low speeds (bikes and golf carts) or
AC systems. For DC systems, it takes alot of current to get rolling or
go up a hill, which wastes power and makes the motor hot (analogous to
trying to pedal a bicycle up a steep hill in a high gear). For a
typical hobbyist DC conversion, keeping the transmission is a very good
idea. |
EV |
Electric Vehicle |
Flooded
Batteries |
Most golf cart and car starter
batteries have liquid electrolyte, hence the nickname "flooded"
batteries. These batteries tend to be cheaper and longer lived than AGM
batteries, provided current draws remain modest. Note: Car starter
batteries are designed for very short bursts of work, and will not live
long in EV deep cycle use. |
NEV |
Neighborhood Electric Vehicle --
By law these vehicles are limited to 25 mph, but are available new for
significantly less money than most new cars. |
Regen |
Regenerative Braking -- this is
the process of turning the electric motor into a generator during
braking, charging the batteries as the car stops. This is an expensive
feature for a freeway capable electric car, and only adds about 10%
more range, so most hobbyist conversions do not have regen. |
UCCC |
Utah Clean Cities Coalition http://www.utahcleancities.org |
ZEV |
Zero Emissions Vehicle |